A trail of Mumbai's historical footprints

Author: Kavya S

The numerous historical incidents that have occurred from the time of independence in Mumbai are what makes it unique. 

The place from the time of Britishers reign, Red Light area, Dawood Ibrahim, Chota Rajan, Harshad Mehta, Terrorist attacks to IPLs, Mukesh Ambani, Shahrukh Khan, and whatnot. One can see the most minor incidents that happened in Mumbai. Every momentous occurrence has left its imprint on Mumbai's streets, buildings, and roadways, as well as in the hearts of every resident. As I sat down at the Leopold Cafe to have a pastry and some chicken wings to keep my dad company while he drank beer, my eyes were darting all around the eatery since I had heard that it was one of the ten locations where a terrorist assault had occurred in 2008. My gaze immediately focused on the two bullet holes in the glass panes which the cafe's owners had preserved without replacing them. I was left wondering what it could have been like for those present at that time, how terrified they may have become, and how the attack might have taken place. The fact that they examined my baggage as I entered the cafe is a reminder of the horrifying attack that claimed the lives of people who were having a peaceful time at the cafe. I even took pictures of the entire atmosphere to remind myself of how I felt during my visit. I had an exhilarating experience throughout my time in the cafe. Uncle George, my driver/guide, pointed me in the direction of the Bombay Stock Exchange while we explored the bustling streets of Mumbai. That soon reminded me of the great Harshad Mehta, who I first learned about through the SonyLiv television series Scam 1992. He was the one who controlled the stock market and the person behind the scam that brought down the entire market in 1992. Due to my familiarity with Harshad Mehta, an overwhelming feeling ran down my spine, thinking that he had once existed in that building, earning a living using his cunning intellect and knowledge. It made me feel ecstatic. I'd say he had good expertise, because of which he was able to increase and change things, which ultimately led to fooling people. When I finally mustered the courage to ask Uncle George, "Were you here during the time of Dawood and Chota Rajan?" A thought that had been torturing me from the inside out, and I had been debating whether or not to ask, which I finally did. He grinned and responded, "Yes." I smiled in response. The gullies which Dawood ruled still exist, and the interesting fact is that the police still don't go there to settle conflicts or conduct routine patrols since the residents take care of their own needs as a cult. The gullies of Mumbai made me feel like I was in the '80s and ’90s. The old buildings took me back to the scenes of various Bollywood movies. I was indeed enjoying the ride through those streets. 

Mahatma Gandhi's home, which the government has preserved and converted into a museum, transported me back in time. My journey through the photo exhibition on the second and third floors took me through the Salt Satyagraha, the Quit India Movement, the boycott of foreign goods, and the 1948 assassination of Mahatma Gandhi. Each key event has been accurately portrayed, and a small replica of the incident that happened and its participants has been created. When I glanced at the second-to-last shot, which depicts Gandhi's assassination, I was left wondering how others around him would have felt seeing him wounded and departed. It was a feeling that nobody would ever get unless they visited the museum and explored every exhibit, just like I did. Even then, they might not feel the same way considering everyone’s unique thought process. 

When driving through the city, I had a visual impression of being in a European country. I was reminded of the period the British dominated India while glancing at the old British-style buildings. The way they construct the structures with the help of stone is different from the Indian buildings, which are unique and beautiful in their own way. The buildings of schools and colleges built by the British during their time in India gave me the same emotions I do while watching English-language series. The streets, cafes, and buildings transported me to Europe, and I felt I was residing there for a second. It was like mini Europe and India coexisting in one destination called Mumbai. The gateway of India, which denotes the seaside entrance into the country of India, was constructed during the British era to honour King-emperor George V's arrival. I was able to see the Taj Hotel directly from the Gateway of India. I'd like to refer to it as a "Hotel of Emotions.” Taj Hotel has left a huge imprint on every Indian, especially Mumbai folks, of fear, loss of their dear and near ones, tourists, attacks, and sadness. I felt a gush of emotions despite the rain. Later on, even Uncle George spoke of his horrific experience during the terrorist attacks.  He dropped off several of his clients at the Taj and was even present when the hotel was attacked. Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, a British railway building, was used for exports and imports of goods then. During my visit, the train terminal was crowded with people waiting to board trains while announcements about the train’s destinations and routes continued incessantly. My father brought the media image of Ajmal Kasab holding a gun, taken from here and circulated, to my attention. It never crossed my mind back in 2008 while watching the news about the attack that one day I'll be visiting the places horrified and crumbled by the gunshots and attacks. Sometimes you never know what lies ahead, what will happen next, who will be affected, or how life changes in seconds. 

When my father gave me the choice of whether or not to visit the Red Light area since I was pursuing journalism, I figured that a journalist should be familiar with every region of their country, and happily accepted the offer. Driving through the Red Light area and with the release of the movie “Gangubai”, the statement by Gangubai Kathiawadi, “We have fire in us and yet bloom like roses, we satisfy the lust of men and protect the integrity of women. What happens if Kamathipura doesn’t exist, women will get raped, families falls apart, and the Indian culture will go into dust,” echoed my mind. It's true, and I remember Uncle George telling me that Mumbai is the safest place for men and women during the day and night. Bandra Fort in Mumbai holds a reminder of Portuguese rule in India, which has captured itself in many movies of different genres and languages. Worli sea link road, seen from the fort combined, has an amazing scenic view, which many filmmakers haven't missed to portray in their movies in unique ways. Despite the breeze pelting me like a hurricane, I was thrilled to be in a location that established its foundation in Indian movies. Despite all these significant events, we still thrive and enjoy and build our safest place, called home in Mumbai, with all the celebrities staying in each corner of Mumbai in their own flats and houses to exciting sports events like the IPL and horse riding. Mumbai has grown into a happening city in India. 

The Taj and the Gateway of India | Britannica

I noticed a few fascinating events/traditions during my stay in Mumbai. One is that the autos don't have a place in the heart of Mumbai city.  The auto drivers have to drop off their customers at a particular location at the beginning of the highway. From there, the customers can call a ride in a taxi and travel to the city. The autos are allowed only in the outer parts of Mumbai, which is quite funny and eye-opening at the same time because I haven't heard of or been through such a tradition before. Coming from an atmosphere where each road, street, and public transport station is filled with political party flags and banners, to find no such thing in Mumbai left me with nothing but astonishment. Travelling to Mumbai during the rains was the best decision I ever made. Because the monsoon in Mumbai brought so many intriguing and protective personalities of the residents to my attention. The two-wheelers were shielding the front part of the vehicle with plastic cover in order to protect them from rain. In addition, the huge buildings are also wrapped with plastic material so they are protected from rain. One of the buildings is the great Amitabh Bachan’s house. When we saw it for the first time, me and my family wondered why they had done such a thing to a beautiful building. But later came to know it was because of the rains they were protecting them. Have seen people shielding themselves from rain, not vehicles and buildings. That's something of another level. These tiny details helped me realise that the residents are very protective of their investments. Each and every flat has an additional layer of grilled windows, yet Mumbai is the safest place. The disturbing fact that I witnessed is division. There were different sports clubs and colonies for various religions. It did cross my mind as to why they have done such a division but made peace with it by realising that maybe such separation is another trait of the city. Due to this, it caught my eye. But still, I was able to witness different communities from Muslims, Christians, and Hindus to Parsi, Gujarathi marwadi, and Jains coexisting in Mumbai. 

Jehangir art gallery was holding an art exhibition, which I happily attended. While going through some of the pieces, I understood what Karthi and Prakash Raj felt in the Tamil movie ‘Thozha.’ I was ecstatic and proud of myself for visiting the art exhibition for the first time. Every single piece of art brought me relief and peace deep inside. This particular art exhibition inspired me to attend more such events in the future. 

Every turn, location, street, gully, building, and bridge has a unique tale to share. Stories of survival, ruling, scam, enthusiasm, and creativity. That's why I consider Mumbai a historic place which one shouldn't miss to visit. I am grateful for my choice of TV series and movies because of which I was able to add to my knowledge of incidents such as terrorist attacks, which I already had a vague idea of, be it Harshad Mehta, Dawood Ibrahim, Chota Rajan, and Gangubai. It is really important for directors to make such television series and movies in order to provide viewers with a better understanding of what Indians have gone through after and before independence and also to give an idea of prominent people who have contributed to systemic change.